Marrakech brings An Ode to Sahara 2

From Marrakech, the 70-km climb to the Tiz n Tichka Pass in the High Atlas Mountainsis a clutch-grinding series of switchbacks offering fantastic views. The first stop is a wind-blasted pass poised somewhere between the two worlds of the High Atlas Mountains and the sub-Sahara. We head towards the Dades, Draa and Ziz Valleys, blessed in this arid land with life-giving rivers. They are indescribably beautiful, lined with palmeraies, ancient kasbahs (defensive forts constructed of red baked clay) and towns that have changed little in centuries. Historically, tribal feuding and banditry were a way of life for the Berbers of the region, and as a result, hundreds of kasbahs were built throughout these valleys.

Close to 40 km before Ouarzazate, an important holiday destination south of High Atlas, is the exotic kasbah of Ait Benhaddou, a location favoured by filmmakers. Over 20 movies have been produced here including Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator. We enter the kasbah through a broad arching gateway that leads to the living quarters of the village, pass through courtyards of homes adorned with colourful Berber rugs and enjoy expansive views that demonstrates the kasbah's once strategic strength.

In nearby Ouarzazate, the minibus grinds to a halt in a tight knot of laneways where our driver jumps out and leads the group through a labyrinth of passageways to a dim doorway where Mohammed spreads his arms wide in welcome. "Hello, what are your names? Where are you from? Please, come in and see some magnificent carpets." After being encouraged to make ourselves at home, Mohammed re-appears carrying a silver tray with an elegant metal teapot packed with fresh mint leaves, tea and sugar.

While he makes a spectacle of pouring the fragrant golden brew from a great height into small decorative glasses, his brother Ali brings in some rugs to 'pleasure our eyes', and with great flourishing flicks rolls them out before us.

After haggling hard and stocking up on carpets, we drop down from the High AtlasMountains into the Dades Valley and the spectacular Dades Gorge with its glowing red gorge walls, startling rock formations, more kasbahs and finally our bed for the night.

The next day, with the mountains far behind, the surrounding stony landscape gradually changes into windblown sandy plains. Ahead, begins the Great Erg Chebbi, an immense dune system that sweeps south into the Sahara. Nearby, several camels stand masticating, waiting to carry the group into the desert sunset.

In single file we ride into this vast sea of sand, where the dunes rise and fall like waves. The setting sun casts shadows of the camels and riders across the rippling sands, a more romantic image than the reality of the camels' jolting motion and foul breath.

Fading pink clouds have been swallowed by the night sky as we finally reach our camp consisting of two tents of camel hair slung over low poles in a depression in the dunes. As we all sink gratefully into rugs thrown over the sand, the camel-handlers, Brahim and Mahjoubi serve mint tea followed by delicious tajines.

After dinner, Mahjoubi takes out his drum and he and Brahim begin to sing an ancient song of love. One of the travellers plays a didgeridoo, another pulls out his harmonica, while the tummy grumbles of the camels add another musical dimension to this magical atmosphere under a star-studded Saharan sky.